Wednesday, January 22, 2014

How To Train Your Dog

We all love to teach our dogs tricks. Some are frivolous like "play dead" and some are important, like going potty only when outdoors. But there are other tricks to teach our furry friends that could save their lives. Whether it's to keep Fido from being hit by a car or getting into a fight, these 12 tricks are intended as building blocks, steps toward an obedient and therefore safe dog. Not every trick will be necessary for your particular pooch and you might have your own customized tricks created to keep your dog safe — after all our dogs are individuals and our relationships with them are multi-layered. But these top 12 tricks are a great place to start picking and choosing what is needed to create a safety net of good behavior for you and your dog. So this article will tell you how to train your dog.

"Sit" is the one you should start with how to train your dog. When a dog is in a "sit" position, he knows he is meant to stay sitting until you say otherwise. If you need your dog to just chill out while you take care of something, you can put him in a sit position, knowing he won't run off and get into trouble while you're distracted. It's a perfect command for situations like standing in a crowded place or if you're loading the car for a trip and need Fido to hang out before getting in. Or on the flip side, telling your dog to "sit" before opening the door of the car to let him out gives you time to open the door, leash him up, and make sure no other cars are coming in the street or parking lot before allowing him to exit the vehicle.

Lie down
The "lie down" trick is another way to have your dog stay in one place and out of trouble. Teaching your dog to lie down — especially if you teach him to drop to a down position when you signal from far away — can go a long way in keeping him out of trouble. A down position is one of increased vulnerability, so if your dog is getting too rambunctious around other dogs or is too wound up in a certain situation and simply needs to mellow out, a "lie down" command gives him an opportunity to calm down and remember his human is the one who is in control. Like the "sit" command, this is an active command, meaning your dog isn't just lounging — he should be purposefully staying in one spot, keeping focus on you and waiting for his next command. Both the sit and lie down commands are excellent for bringing a boisterous dog back down to earth before a situation escalates out of control — such as when other dogs are around that might spark a fight, small children might get hurt, or other attention-grabbers pull your dog's focus away from you.

This one is a bit redundant. After all, if you put a dog in a sit or down position, then he shouldn't need a "stay" command since he should remain in a sit or down until released. But the "stay" command works kind of like a security blanket for both owner and dog — this way everyone knows that the expectation is that the dog isn't going to move for a while, no matter where you are located, even if that means you are out of sight. And this can be a truly lifesaving command if you need a dog to stay put when there is car traffic or anything happening where a dog moving around could mean he gets injured. For the photo above, I'd never have just said "sit" and crossed an intersection. I want my dog to know he isn't to move until I say so and it may be awhile. "Stay" ensures that.

This trick is rather obvious. After all, knowing that your dog will return to your side without fail in any situation is a big part of ensuring he will be safe. But getting that "rocket recall" can be tough. When a dog is distracted, or knows that you are much more boring than whatever trouble he is getting into, then getting him to come when called is a challenge. There are different ways to approach it, depending on a dog's personality, but the best way to make sure your dog beelines back to you when you call is to give him the most amazing treat he can possibly imagine every time he comes back to your side. Whether it is rotisserie chicken, or liver baby food, or tripe, make sure he only gets that treat when he hears, and obeys, the recall command. Then he knows that when he hears the word "come" he'll get a jackpot of a reward. Here's a great video about getting a rocket recall with an example of exactly why it is so important for your dog to come back to you no matter what else is happening.

Your name is the most exciting word in the world
To humans, names are really important. It is embedded in us to use someone's name to get their attention. Why bother fighting against that compulsion to say a name when needing your dog's attention? But if it works for us to say the name, we need to make sure it works for the dog to hear his name. Teaching a dog to love his name sets the foundation for everything else in your relationship as it creates a level of trust as well as willingness to learn more tricks. And it can also be a lifesaver when out and about. For instance, if a dog is reactive to other dogs while on leash and his attention begins to zero in on a dog walking toward you on the street, you can say your dog's name to bring his attention back to you. You can give him other commands or treats until the other dog has passed. You avoid conflict, and you etch away at that reactivity since your dog will realize that keeping his attention on you is much more rewarding than getting freaked out by that strange dog ahead. You now have an invaluable tool that can be used in situations from busy streets to chaotic dog parks to finding a dog that has wandered off out of sight.

Sit at street corners
Some dogs just don't get that streets are dangerous places. Why would they? Streets and the traffic on them are human inventions, and probably seem arbitrary to a dog. But even if your dog doesn't know that streets are dangerous, he can learn that the spot where a street and sidewalk meet is a place where treats are earned. The curb can become a "cue" for a dog to sit. By teaching a dog to automatically sit when he reaches a curb, you'll lower the chances that he will trot into the street when a car is coming. Keep in mind, though, that this is a tough trick for a dog to learn, and one you may have to work at for a long time. But if your dog has the personality to master this trick, it can be a real lifesaver.

Leave it

If you don't want your dog getting into something that could kill him, "leave it" is a must-know trick. Many dogs have trouble with the notion of ignoring something that may be just so very tempting. And let's face it: We really do know what's better for a dog to leave alone than a dog does. A solid "leave it" command works for keeping your dog from exploring dangerous objects — even other wildlife you come across on walks or hikes — or getting too close to an object or situation that could harm him. Bonus: This is a great foundational command for teaching your dog other fun tricks like balancing treats on his nose or even as part of the process to train him not to jump on people. After all, food isn't the only thing the "leave it" command can apply to!

Drop it

If you've ever had a dog that eats anything and everything he finds, the "drop it" command can be a lifesaver if you find he has scooped up something unsavory or flat-out dangerous. To avoid stomachaches or worse, you'll want to teach your dog towant to drop something from his mouth the moment you tell him to. For some dog personalities, this might be a big challenge, so make sure that you build a foundation of providing incredible treats every time he obeys the "drop it" command. Your dog will then know that the biggest reward is not what's in his mouth but what he'll get if he casts it aside. This command is also excellent for reminding your dog that possessiveness is not a positive personality trait. For example, "drop it" can be used for diffusing tug-o-war games that are getting out of hand and may escalate into a fight.

This is a great trick for making a dog stop in midstride (click on the photo above to see a video). It is slightly redundant if you already have the "Your Name Is The Most Exciting Word In The World" trick down because with both tricks the intention is to get the dog to stop what he is doing and focus attention back on you. But I've found that the "wait" trick is a nice middle ground, used when I just want him to stop and pause for a moment before we move on. Sometimes he sits, sometimes he just stands there, sometimes he circles back around toward me for a few steps — it doesn't matter to me how he waits as long as he stops moving forward and focuses his attention on me when he hears it. It's a perfect trick for off-leash walking when you want your dog to pause before you turn a blind corner and aren't sure what's headed your way, if a car is pulling into a driveway, if he's jogging straight toward a patch of poison oak on the hiking trail, or any number of reasons to keep your pooch safe off-leash.

When your dog is off leash or without a collar and you need him to move along with you somewhere, the "heel" command is a must to keep him safely by your side. It's also a good command even while on leash when you're moving through large crowds or in areas with construction or similar danger zones. You can be strict about it, making the heel command one where your dog must walk right up next to you with his head even with your leg, as is the rule in obedience classes. Or you can make it a little less stringent, with the dog knowing he just has to walk by your side until told otherwise. While a solid "heel" command should be enough to keep a dog next to you, I've also taught my dog the command "glue." When he hears "glue!" he sticks his nose on the palm of my hand and keeps it there even if we're walking or jogging. It comes in handy as our equivalent of holding hands across the street when he is off-leash and there are too many cars around. It's more for my sense of security than my dog's, because then I can feel where he is even when I'm looking elsewhere. Check out the video I made of him demonstrating "glue."

This is one of the most important section of "How To Train Your Dog". If you have a dog that is prone to making independent (and stupid) decisions unless you're really paying attention, then a "focus" command is a good trick to have at the ready. This is simply a trick that tells the dog, "Ignore everything in the world except me right now." It is ideal for situations that could get a nervous dog too amped up — such as when walking past other dogs that are giving him the stink eye. "Focus" helps your dog know that he can zone out everything else going on around him (even that mean dog) because you're the only thing important right now and you'll handle the rest. I often use this with my dog when we're walking past a flock of pigeons on the city street. It can be all too much temptation for him and, if left to stare at the birds too long, will bolt out even into the street to chase them up. A "Focus!" brings his attention back on me so we can walk past the flock without danger of him taking off. (Bonus: It also works great for taking pet photos — I say "focus" and my dog looks at the camera for as long as I need him to!)

Don't take candy from strangers
It's sad to say, but you can't always trust that someone has good intentions when giving your dog a treat. There are horror stories of people handing out poisoned "treats" to dogs. But we don't have to be as extreme as that in understanding why passing up food from strangers is a smart trick for your dog to learn. This also works for dogs that have food allergies and you don't want some random person at the dog park feeding them something that'll cause a reaction. And it also works well to prevent unwanted begging, because let's face it: A dog that begs is simply being rude, not cute. However, this might be one of the hardest things to teach your dog. And I can't claim to have taught mine this trick — and I probably never will. Since my dog is fearful of strangers, I have encouraged the idea that humans (even strangers) are walking treat dispensers. However, it can be done! For instance, protection dogs are trained to refuse food provided by anyone other than their handler or individuals that the dog has been trained to regard as "safe." This reduces the potential of a protection dog being poisoned by a criminal. While your dog likely doesn't need to be "poison proofed" to this extent, it's still a reasonable idea to teach your dog a command like "No beg!" or even use the "leave it" command when you notice him wanting to accept a treat from a stranger.

After all the above mentioned information, you should not have any issue with training your dog. Leave the question How To Train Your Dog under your bed, and start enjoying your life with your beloved.

How To Potty Train Your Dog

Puppies are not born with the knowledge that peeing or pooping on your floor or carpet is not acceptable. It is up to you, the responsible pet owner, to teach them exactly where you require them to pee and poop. This is a long article but I ask you to please read it in its entirety because it will fully answer your question of "how to potty train your dog". It is not difficult to house train a puppy and this article will give you the understanding to successfully achieve complete house training. (Also known as house breaking)

How To Potty Train Your Dog.
*You will have to put some effort into house training your puppy or dog.
*You have to be consistent.
*You have to be diligent.
*Expect accidents.
Tools Required for Potty Training:

Happy Voice Unhappy Voice .....That's all you need.

Have a Schedule
If you are able, take your puppy outside once an hour. Stand with him but don't distract him at all. Let him sniff around. If he goes to the bathroom while outside tell him what a good dog he is while he is actually peeing or pooping Choose a word for his elimination. You can call it what ever you want as long as you are consistent with it. For example: While he is peeing say, "Do a pee, good boy, well done" or "Go potty, great work, good dog". By saying these words your puppy will then be able to learn these words and associate them with the action. In the future you will be able to ask your dog to urinate on command.

If he pees or poops when you take him outside make a big fuss of him. Praise him, pat him, play with him. Let him know that if he goes to the bathroom outside you are very very pleased with him.

If you take the puppy outside and after three or four minutes he hasn't gone to the bathroom bring him back inside and try again in ten minutes.
FACT: Puppies will normally need to eliminate just after they have eaten and just after they have woken up from a sleep.
Always take your puppy outside as soon as he awakens from a sleep or within minutes after eating.

They go plenty of other times too so keep a watch out. Puppies may also need to potty while playing. If your puppy runs away from a game you are having always suspect he is off for a bathroom break.

Have an acceptable area where you will allow him to go to the bathroom
If it isn't possible for you to frequently take your puppy outside then you must decide where you will allow your puppy to go to the bathroom inside. Have acceptable areas where he can eliminate. When my puppies were small I allowed them to either go outside or on newspaper placed at the door that led to the outside. (You may prefer to use potty training pads rather than newspaper)

I only used newspaper for a short period of time and only when the puppy was very young. Over a period of time I moved the newspaper from just inside the door to just outside the door and then I completely removed the newspaper altogether.

If you are potty training your puppy to go outside ensure that he can get out! Can you leave a door open? Do you have a doggy door? Does he know how to use the doggy door? Sometimes stairs to gain access to the outside can be an issue. Puppies may be afraid to go up or down them. You could teach your puppy to ring a bell to go outside to potty.

Constant Supervision. Contain your puppy to one or two rooms.

How To Train Your Dog is not only about Training, you should check this. Before your puppy is potty trained don't let him have the run of the house. Try to contain him to the room you spend the most time in so you can watch him most of the time. Close all bedroom doors and barricade other areas that do not have doors. You could use baby gates to contain your puppy.

Watch your puppy as much as you can. This is where diligence comes into play. You must be prepared to watch your puppy as much as possible.

It is never a good idea to get a new puppy on Saturday or Sunday and then go to work on Monday. If it is possible try to organize at least a week off from work so you can spend some intensive time potty training your puppy.

Know the signs that your puppy is about to eliminate

Puppies are quick. One minute they are playing and the next minute they are peeing on your carpet.

Some of the signs that your pup is about to pee are:

Sniffing the floor
Taking off suddenly to another room or area. They often do this when they want to poop.

Often there are no warning signs, the puppy just squats and pees.

Give your puppy the right message

When you notice your puppy doing any of the above things gently and without a big fuss pick him up and place him on the newspaper or take him outside. Don't frighten the pup when you do this. It's a fact of life that your puppy has to pee and he has to poop so you don't want him to get the wrong message that peeing and pooping are wrong. You want him to get the message that peeing and pooping in the wrong place is not acceptable behavior and pottying in the 'allowed' area is acceptable behavior.

Catching Puppy in the act

When you catch your puppy in the act of going to the bathroom in the wrong place tell him firmly in a 'not happy voice' , "Nooooo don't pee there." Then take him to the newspaper or take him outside. If you shout and carry on at him it will only frighten him and he will soon learn to sneak off and do it where you can't see him, so this will not help you in potty training, but just make it worse.

Your puppy may have already started to pee by the time you reach him and although you may have dribbles across the floor still take him to the newspaper or outside and then praise him for being there. Sometimes you are not quick enough and he has finished peeing by the time you reach him. Never mind.. take him to the paper or outside anyway and tell him 'Do a pee here, good boy. Clever dog. ' Don't ever make the newspaper something to be frightened of.

It helps to put some dog pee on the newspaper because the pup will identify the smell and associate it with going to the bathroom. When your puppy has an accident blot a little of the urine on to the newspaper. Somewhere in his brain he might think 'Hmmm, pee smell here. I think this would be a good place to pee.' and so he pees on the newspaper.

When your pup goes to the newspaper or outside of his own free will, wait until he starts to eliminate and then as he is doing it tell him in a happy voice what great fellow he is. 'What a good boy... do a pee on the paper... good work... well done'

Expect Accident.

Don't have unrealistic expectations of your puppy. He is going to have plenty of accidents before he gets the message of what is expected of him.

Praise not Punish

Praising your dog for doing the right thing will always work far better than punishing him for doing the wrong thing. Don't get angry. Don't go overboard by yelling and screaming. Teach your dog by positive means instead of negative reactions.

Cleaning up is very Important

When your puppy pees or poops on the carpet or floor you must clean it up immediately. If your puppy smells pee on the floor or carpet then he is more likely to return to this area to pee again. In addition to all other information on this page you must clean all odors of previous accidents so as to prevent him re-offending in the same spot. A dog relies very much on his sense of smell.

On hard floor areas such as tiles or wood this is not a great problem. Wipe up the pee or poop with some paper towels and then use some disinfectant. If your puppy pees or poops on the carpet use an 'Oxy Action' laundry stain spray to get rid of the odors.

(Image at left is just an example. Any laundry spray that uses 'Oxy Action' is suitable.)

Below are two links which give detailed descriptions of how to effectively clean up dog urine and poop using household products that you probably have on hand.

Too Late. He's already done it.

Accept some of the blame yourself, perhaps you could have been watching him better. Don't get angry.

If you find the mess or puddle after the event has happened do not rub his nose in it. This is a big NO NO and such an old fashioned idea that doesn't work. However, you must let him know that this is unacceptable. Put your dog on his leash or in the case of a small puppy pick him up and take him to the puddle or mess. Change the tone of your voice... adopt a not happy voice and say 'I'm not happy with this' while pointing to the puddle or poop. Make himlook at the 'accident' It is very likely that your pup will not want to look at what you are pointing to and he will avert his eyes from what you are showing him. Hold him there and tell him several times in a not happy voice, NO! Not Good! He will feel uncomfortable when you do this and this is what you want to achieve.

Have some tissue at the ready and pick up the poop or blot the urine and take it outside and put it where you would have liked him to do it in the first place. Make sure you still have him on the leash and that he accompanies you and watches every step of the procedure. Put the tissue on the ground and then tell the puppy in a happy voice, 'Good place... do pee here... very good place' or words to that effect.

I still keep finding little surprises on the floor

If you are constantly finding puddles and messes follow the above procedure with one small change. When you take him to the puddle or poop and he averts his eyes and doesn't want to know anything about it, tie his leash to something nearby such as a table leg or chair leg. Make sure he can't escape seeing it. Leave him like this for a few minutes while you walk away and ignore him. Don't leave him there for more than five minutes, that's long enough to get the message across.

When you are not there

You can't always be with your puppy 24 hours a day. When you go out you have the choice of putting him outside or containing him to one room or area. In some very cold climates putting your puppy outside is not an option. You could for example put him in the garage with a warm kennel or bed. If your house is open plan you may have to come up with some idea of barricading off a containment area. Baby gates often work well. Choose an area that can be easily cleaned after accidents. Put newspapers in the room with him near the door.

Some people choose to contain their dog or puppy in the basement when they are away from home. Before you consider this option ask yourself if you would be happy to be locked in your basement for several hours. Is it cold and damp? How could you improve the conditions of the basement? Is it possible to provide heating? A snug bed would be the absolute minimum requirement.

Don't shut him up in a pen or a small bathroom. That's not going to teach him anything. Don't put him in a crate. Crates teach dogs NOTHING. They are imprisoned and have no choices. Imagine if you really needed to pee and you were locked in a small cage. How long could you hold it? Could you hold it for 5 hours until someone got home? I doubt it. Now imagine your puppy is a small child locked in a cage. Could a toddler hold it for 5 hours?

You can't expect your puppy to hold it for hours on end. You should expect that there will pee or poop on the floor when you get home. Just make it easier for yourself to clean up by containing him to an area that is easier to clean. For example, choose an area that is tiled, hardwood or concrete.

As your dog gets older he will have more control over his bladder and bowels but when he is a baby you cannot expect miracles.

How long does it take to potty train a puppy?
On average it will take about two to three weeks. Remember that all dogs are not the same and some will learn very quickly and some will take a little longer. I once had a dog who learned paper training after one day. I caught her 'In the act' and put her on the newspaper and she never again went anywhere else apart from the newspaper or outside. She was a very smart puppy and an exception to the rule.

Expect Regression

Sometimes months after you think you have successfully potty trained your dog he will have the odd slip up. Expect this and deal with it as you did in the beginning. Accidents may happen with fully trained dogs. Dogs that are not neutered or spayed have a higher incidence of eliminating in the house. Scent marking is another form of undesired elimination and can be managed by neutering and refreshing housetraining.

How to Potty Train Your Dog? i don't think that this should be concerned, with this article anymore. B-)

German Shepherd Training

What is known is that the German Shepherd is a hard working dog and the higher the drive, the more experience required of the owner and of the trainer in charge. So an appropriate
German Shepherd Training program is extremely important.

Additionally, the German Shepherd is:
  • Believed to be one of the top three most intelligent breeds 
  • Eager to have a purpose
  • Able to interpret and learn a variety of tasks
The German Shepherd is also a self-assured breed, meaning that they usually require an equally competent and confident owner. When a German Shepherd trusts their handler explicitly, it is like witnessing two parts of the same whole. It is of little surprise that other dog owners who see such a relationship want the same for themselves. Royvon dog training cultivates this rapport between man and dog.

German Sheperd Training is not an overnight act, there is always a price for perfection and the price is putting into the dog exactly what you desire to receive and a German Shepherd that does not have their top traits nurtured may take charge of their own purpose. These are German Shepherds that become over-protective, over-territorial and quite possibly aggressive. They are also are easily bored and agitated without anything to do, which often results in displacement behaviour. This is where our dog and puppy training can help ensure your dog stays nurtured and purposeful.

As a highly trainable, immensely loyal and responsive breed, it is unfortunate too for them to be owned by those not willing to help them reach their full potential, and Royvon has more experience training German Shepherds than any other breed of dog

Breed Characteristics 
Breed Awareness/Management
The German Shepherd is an intelligent, discriminating, confident, responsive breed that is willing to learn, and will learn - and do anything. Firm, but calm and consistent obedience training is essential to maintain control of the GSD. They must be owned and handled by someone equally as smart and capable, as anything less is a waste of this outstanding breed's potential!
The German Shepherd is a powerful breed and enjoys boisterous play. Aggressive games should be controlled from an early age as a puppy to discourage unsafe and undesirable behaviour. Dominant GSD's may refuse commands from family members who do not establish leadership over them.
Due to natural guarding instincts, the German Shepherd can be potentially aggressive with strange dogs or people.
From an early age as a puppy, socialisation of this dog is crucial. Be sure to have complete control before exposing them to social situations full of distractions.
Most German Shepherds are sociable, but can be aloof with strangers. They are intelligent and adapt well to positive training. Although some may seem nervous in kennels, they generally cope well.
This breed has a double-density coat and copes well in all weathers. Care should be taken when exercising in hot weather as they can overheat.
A happy, healthy confident German Shepherd is good-natured, lively, and makes an ideal family pet and guardian. Respect and love your German Shepherd and they will return your loyalty and companionship without question.

German shepherd Training has always been a controversial discussion since they are also pretty aggressive, i would highly reccommend you to speak to professionals before implementing.

How To Crate Train Your Dog

Crate training is a method of house training your puppy or dog. The crate is used to keep your dog confined when you are not able to supervise him. Since most dogs will not go to the bathroom in the same place they sleep, your dog will most likely try to hold it when he is confined to his crate. This prevents him from getting in the bad habit of having accidents in your home. This article will covr the issue related to how to crate train your dog.

Here's how to crate train your dog:
Choose a Crate for Your Dog

The first answer to how to crate train your dog should be choosing a crate. There are several different types of cratesto choose from, including a wire cage, a plastic pet carrier, and a soft-sided canvas or nylon crate. The wire crate is the most commonly used. It allows your dog to see what is going on around him, and many have an extra panel which allows you to make the crate bigger or smaller depending on the size of your dog. This type of crate is collapsible, and it has a sliding tray in the floor which makes it easy to clean.

The plastic pet carrier is also a good option for crate training. This is the kind you most often see used for airline travel. The drawback to this kind of crate is that it is enclosed on three sides, so it does not let in as much light as a wire crate. It is also a little harder to clean.

The soft-sided crates are a good option for dogs who are not big chewers. These are lightweight, so they are great to carry along when you are traveling with your dog. The problem with the soft-sided crates is that a dog who likes to chew or scratch at the sides will be able to break out. It is not a good choice for young puppies.

Whichever type of crate you choose to use, size is important. The crate should not be too large. You want your dog to have enough room to lie down comfortably and turn around. If the crate is too big, your dog may use one area of the crate to sleep and another spot to eliminate. Many of the wire crates are sold with a divider. This is perfect if you are crate training a growing puppy. The divider allows you to confine your puppy to a small area of the crate, and then make the crate larger as your puppy grows.

Introduce Your Dog to the Crate
Crate training should be kept very positive. Introduce your puppy or adult dog to the crate slowly. Put something soft in the bottom of the crate, along with some of your dog's toys. Throw some treats inside. Let your dog explore the crate at his own pace without forcing him to go inside. Praise him and give him a treat when he goes in on his own. Until he seems comfortable with his crate, keep the door open and let your dog wander in and out as he wishes.
Confining Your Dog in the Crate
Once your dog is comfortable going in and out of the crate, it is time to start getting him used to being confined. Throw some treats in the crate, and once your dog is inside, close the door. Wait a minute or so, and as long as your dog is quiet, let him out of the crate. Slowly extend the amount of time you leave your dog in the crate while you are at home until he is comfortable being confined in the crate for up to an hour or more.

Once your dog is comfortable with being confined, begin to get him used to be left alone while in his crate. When he is calm in his crate, step out of the room for a few minutes and then step back in. Gradually build up the amount of time you are out of the room until your dog or puppy is comfortable being left alone in his crate for an hour or more.
The "Don'ts" of Crate Training
There are a few simple rules to keep in mind to make crate training successful. First, never use your dog's crate to punish him. Your dog should consider his crate a happy, comfortable, and safe place. If you use his crate to punish your dog, chances are he will be fearful and anxious when left in it.

It is also important that you never let your dog out of the crate while he is whining or barking. He should be completely calm before you release him. Opening the crate while he is barking or whining simply teaches him that if he makes enough noise, he will be let out. Making this mistake can lead to many sleepless nights as you wait for your puppy to settle down.

Finally, never leave your dog crated for longer than he is physically able to hold his bladder or bowels. You cannot expect the impossible. Puppies can usually hold it for no more than 3-4 hours. An adult dog who has never been house trained should also not be left for longer than 3-4 hours. Older dogs may be able to hold it a little longer. Dogs should not be left crated for more than this length of time without being taken out for exercise, playtime, and time to cuddle with you.
Is Crate Training Cruel?
Many people are concerned about whether it's cruel to leave their dog in a cage for any amount of time. Most dog trainers agree that it is no crueler to leave your dog in a crate than it is to leave a baby in a playpen or crib. Crates allow dog owners the peace of mind of knowing their dog is safe when they are not there to supervise.

Also, dogs are known to be den animals. They like having a safe and secure place to call their own. If crate training is done correctly, crates can provide this safe haven. Dog owners often report that their dogs continue to seek out their crates long after house training has been accomplished. For others, once the dog is able to be left alone for several hours without having an accident or becoming destructive, they stop using the crate and allow their dogs free run of their homes while they are out.

So now you already have sufficient knowledge related to how to crate train your dog, it is time to enjoy with your puppies. 

How to Train a Very Aggressive Dog

Aggression in dogs is a very serious and potentially dangerous problem for pet owners. Canine aggression can be the result of many things, including bad breeding, genetics, a medical condition or prior abuse. Dominance aggression is the most common type of canine aggression, but there is also defensive aggression, predatory aggression, territorial aggression and redirected aggression. If your dog is displaying signs of aggression, you need the help of a professional, experienced trainer. However, there are some things that you can start doing now.

Step 1
Until your dog can be trusted, do not allow him around other people or animals. Do not take him for walks unless you are positive that you can control him in any situation.

Step 2
Take your dog to the veterinarian to rule out any medical reason for the aggressive behavior.

Step 3
Establish yourself as pack leader (alpha). Your dog must learn to obey your commands, to defer to you for privileges and to never challenge your authority. In the case of aggressive dogs, this must be done with love, patience and gentle authority. Do not attempt to implement techniques such as "the stare" or the "alpha roll"--these may work with most dogs, but could backfire if used on an already aggressive dog.

Step 4Teach your dog the basic commands: "no," "sit," "stay," "down," and "come."
Practice these commands with her twice a day, every day, for 15 to 20 minutes.

Step 5
Teach your dog to walk properly on a leash. You must let him know that you are in control of the walk. If he attempts to pull you along, stop abruptly for a moment, make him wait, then give the command, "Let's go." If he walks well, praise him; if he pulls again, repeat the lesson, and repeat it each and every time he pulls.

Step 6
Practice NILIF ("Nothing In Life Is Free") with your dog. Require a "sit" before she is allowed to eat, go outside, go inside, go for walk, receive a treat, receive a toy or receive a greeting from you. Your dog must learn to work for everything she wants, and also that she receives everything she wants from you, the pack leader.

Step 7
Do not allow your dog to sleep in your bed. Give him his own bed on the floor next to you.

Step 8
At mealtime, you eat first. Put your dog into a "down" while you eat your breakfast, lunch or dinner. Only when you, the pack leader, have eaten, may she have her meal.

Step 9
Do not allow behaviors that your dog could misinterpret. Do not play tug-of-war or wrestle with your dog, as he could perceive that he is dominating you. Do not allow your dog to jump on you. If he jumps up, turn around and walk away, thereby taking away from him what he hopes to receive by jumping, your attention.

Clicker Training For Dogs

This article will cover clicker training for dogs.
1. Always Follow a Click with a Treat. Always.
Always immediately follow a click with a treat. Even if you clicked accidentally. Even if you clicked a behavior you would really rather not strengthen. Remember, the click in itself means nothing to your dog--she could care less about it. She learns to pay attention to it because it reliably predicts food. Food keeps dogs alive and consequently food does matter in its own right. Every click that’s not followed by a treat weakens the clicker’s reliability as a predictor of food. The less reliable the clicker is, the less relevant it is to your dog. And by the way, that’s not all-- a predictable, reliable world is important to animals, and there’s some evidence that dogs will check out of the training process when the demon of unreliability shows up.

2. Teach Your Dog That Responding to You Is the Key to Getting Treats
Keep the treats irrelevant. That may seem a funny way of putting it, since you’re rewarding your dog with treats, but bear with me a sec. How often do you hear someone say her dog will do X only when he knows she has a treat? To avoid that problem, do two things. One, carry treats around and … don’t train. Lesson for your dog: The presence of treats does not necessarily predict an opportunity to get hold of them. Two, stash treats in sealed containers around your house or in your training area. Ask your dog to do whatever behavior you’re working on, click, and deliver a treat from your secret stash. Aha! says Dogalini. Just because my human doesn’t seem to have any treats handy doesn’t mean I can’t get a treat by doing what she asks. What does predict a chance of treats? Doing what the human asks.

Of course, it’s fine to whip out some treats in plain view of your dog and start a training session. Just be sure to mix up the scenario often enough so your dog doesn’t learn she can always and only earn treats when she sees them upfront.

3. Don’t Use the Clicker to Get Your Dog’s Attention
The clicker has one job: to tell your dog exactly what behavior is earning treats right now.

Think of the clicker as an asterisk or a spotlight, not as a remote. The clicker is for one thing and one thing only, and that is to illuminate for your dog exactly what behavior is earning treats right now. People who are new to training their dogs often notice that the click gets their dog’s attention, and then they start using the click to … get their dog’s attention. This works if you always follow the click with a treat, but it also winds up teaching the dog to do more of whatever he was doing when you tried to get his attention. Note that this is different from clicking and treating when your dog offersyou his attention in the first place
4. Teach in Small Steps

Picture the behavior you want your dog to do, and also all the steps along the way to the well-trained behavior. Work slow and steady. For instance, suppose you’re teaching your dog to stay. And say your goal is for her to lie down while you answer the door and sign for a delivery. That goal has several components, and if you pile them all up at once your dog will be in the position of a human being who’s just been plunked down in front of a piano for the first time and told to play “Rhapsody in Blue.” It ain’t happening. Teach Dogalini to lie down in the first place, then to lie down for longer and longer periods, then to lie down while you walk away from her, then to lie down while you walk toward the door, then to lie down while you open the door and talk to an imaginary person. Have a helper ring your doorbell while you reward your dog generously for lying down.

Break down behaviors into tiny steps, work on one step at a time, and make sure your dog is performing confidently and reliably at each step before you go on to the next. Trust me on this--training in tiny increments might seem laborious at first, but it works much, much better in the long run. You wind up with a dog who responds reliably to your cues instead of a dog who isn’t really sure what you’re asking her to do or why it’s worth her while to do it. 

5. Use the Clicker to Teach New Behaviors

The clicker is for teaching new behaviors and refining behaviors you’ve already taught. Say Zippy lies down 95% of the time when you say “Zippy, down.” In that case you don’t need to click and treat every time he hits the floor. Start singling out stellar performances by clicking and treating only when he lies down super fast. Or when he stays lying down while you bounce a tennis ball in front of him. Or when he lies down a foot, then two feet, then five feet away from you. Eventually, when Zippy routinely drops like a stone and stays put while the Cirque du Soleil turns squirrels loose in your living room, you won’t need to click unless you decide Zip needs a refresher course for some reason.
6. Always Reward Your Dog’s Good Behavior

But never, ever stop rewarding. Once Dogalini has learned that “Dogalini, come!” means “Head for my human as fast as my little legs will carry me, no matter what,” we’re often tempted to take those brilliant performances for granted. Please don’t! You can save the roast chicken for those precious moments when you call Dogalini and she comes to you pronto even though Cirque de Soleil has released a dozen gymnastically trained squirrels right in front of her nose. But stay generous with the delighted happy talk, the play, and the butt scritches (or whatever your Dogalini enjoys).

so now you have sufficient information about clicker training for dogs, you should start implementing. 

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

How To Leash Train A Dog

Teaching your dog to walk on a loose leash stops him from pulling during walks. It is not a perfect "heel" which keeps your dog strictly by your side. It allows your dog room to sniff and explore the neighborhood, as long as he leaves some slack in his leash. In other words, your dog won't be pulling your arm out of its socket as he lunges forward to get to where he wants to go. Instead, he will have to follow your lead in order to be allowed the freedom to see the sights.

Getting Started
You will need a 6-foot leash and a collar. If your dog is in the habit of pulling, he may be able to easily slip out of a regular flat buckle collar. Martingale collarsare another option. These collars are ideal for training a dog to walk on a loose leash. They look like regular flat collars, but have an extra loop that pulls tight when your dog pulls to keep him from slipping out. You should also have some treats handy.

Give the Command
Choose a word or phrase that lets your dog know what is expected of him. Since this is not a formal "heel," something like "with me" or "let's go" works well. Start out on your walk with your dog at your side, give the command, and begin walking.
Stop and Go
When your dog pulls at the end of the leash, stop immediately and do not budge. Never allow your dog to move forward when he is pulling or lunging. This way, you are teaching him that the only way for him to get to where he wants to go is by leaving some slack in the leash.

As soon as there is some slack in the leash, you can begin again. Give your dog the command "with me" and start moving forward.
Make It Rewarding
Once you step out of your house, you have a lot of competition for your dog's attention. You have to make staying close to you more rewarding and fun then running off to explore all the sights and smells of your neighborhood. For this, you can use treats, praise, and a happy tone of voice.

To start, any time your dog turns and looks at you, tell him "good boy" and give him a treat. This is also a good time to use a clicker, if you have decided to try clicker training. When your dog's attention turns to you, click and treat. In this way, you are teaching your dog that it is rewarding to pay attention to you. You can also speak to your dog in a high, happy tone to keep his attention on you.

You may need to use a lot of treats in the beginning to get your dog's attention. Keep your hand at your side and give him treats continuously, as long as he is walking near you with slack in the leash. As he gets the idea of what you expect from him, you can slowly phase out the treats by waiting longer intervals in between giving them out.

There may be times when you just cannot get your dog's attention. He might find what's going on around him more interesting than your treats or happy talk, and stopping and starting may not be enough to distract him from whatever is holding his attention. In this case, you can wait until he lets up a little on the leash, give him the command again, and turn and walk in the opposite direction. Your dog will have no choice but to follow. If he tries to step out in front of you, cut him off and keep walking. Your dog will soon learn to pay attention to you to figure out which way to go.